They can “overgrow” and take up too much space if not maintained properly. Unless your goal is to grow a medium- to large-sized tree, they need to be pruned now and then. It will also maintain its appealing look in your interior space. Luckily, pruning it is not very complicated. You do not even need a plasma cutter, but a clean and sharp blade or shears will do the trick. You may also consider using gloves.
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Pruning helps strengthen and shape the plants using proper techniques. You can do it any time of the year, but the ideal timing is between late spring and early summer or during its growing season. You may want to consider your preferred shape before starting the pruning process.
Ask yourself whether you want it to be vertical or bushier at the bottom. Start cutting above the nodes, where the leaves are attached to the stem or where smaller stems branch out from larger ones.
Suppose you want to prune a large stem and cut above the area where a tinier stem is branching out. The branches can be cut straight across. You can also make cuttings on top of a leaf scar.
It should not be pruned at the top until it reaches your preferred height if you are aiming for a tree-like form. Pruning at the top will encourage branching out from below instead of growing vertically.
If you want to form a bushy shrub, start by pruning the side stems to encourage branching. It will fill in the midsection. The top and side branches should also be trimmed to achieve your desired diameter.
You can trim on top of a growth node to encourage branching. New stems can likewise be trimmed to make the leaf cover thicker. Branches should be pruned regularly to add volume to the leaves and make them bushier. If you want yours to appear thinner, the stems should be cut back to their trunk.
You may notice some white sap dripping from the stems after pruning. This is normal. All you need to do is wait for the sap to dry out naturally. If you are concerned about the sap getting onto places, you may consider placing a mat around it. It’s especially useful if you’re doing it indoors.
Propagating
Like other options, Ficus elastica should be propagated between early spring and late fall during its active growth phase. You can still propagate your Ficus elastica outside these seasons. The result may not be satisfying, with it unable to recover as quickly.
Make sure to have the following tools before pruning:
- a pair of pruning shears
- rooting hormone
- a small pot filled with perlite and gardening soil
- a zip bag
- and some paper towels.
Speaking of tools, you may want to read our article on gauge wires and engine-driven welders. They’re two tools that will come in handy should you come up with DIY home projects!
Before starting, make sure that your pruning shears are sharp and clean. Choose a healthy stem and cut it halfway up. It ensures that a leaf is left below the cutting on the main part. Dab the main stem with rooting hormone. Some sap might drip off during the process, so make sure to have your paper towels ready to wipe off the mess.
Then, snip off the leaves at the bottom of the cutting using pruning shears. The ideal length of the cutting is below 6 inches. If the stem is longer than this, you may want to cut it in half. This bottom half should then be discarded, leaving two to four leaves at the top of the main cutting. You can also dip the cutting in rooting hormone, which helps encourage root growth. Afterward, put the cutting in the pot filled with soil. Put that in the zip bag, and seal it.
You do not need to zip it all the way through. Instead, leave some air passage. Make sure that the leaves are not touching the bag too often, as this could slow the process of root growth. You may want to use a toothpick to ensure the distance between the bag and the leaves. The bag should be placed in a nice spot to get partial, indirect sunlight.
Keep in mind that they may take a while to produce new leaves through propagation. Having patience is necessary! Ensure that the soil remains moist and the temperature is warm for better results. You should ideally see significant progress in six months. This includes things such as new leaves and well-developed roots.
Another option is propagating through the water. However, it’s not quite as common. This process has similarities with how you propagate a Monstera. To do this, put the cutting in a container filled with water and allow the roots to grow there.
The bottom part of the cutting should not touch the container, which could hamper root growth. Then, place the container next to a window to enjoy some warmth.
If done properly, this process should produce small, white roots in two to three months. Propagation can also be done through air layering. It creates a naked tree ring when a portion of the cutting’s bark is removed. After about three weeks, the developed roots are expected to show up in this ring.
They are said to be effective air purifiers by helping to reduce formaldehyde. They are generally harmless, but people with existing houseplant aversion may need to watch out for reactions. Such reactions could include stomach pain and skin irritation.
For cats and dogs, they may cause an upset stomach and other discomforts if they chew on them. They’re somewhat toxic to your furry friends.
Here’s everything you need to know about Rubber tree plant care. We’ll go into more detail for Burgundy, Ficus Elastica, and Tineke rubber trees.
